Mantua: first stop of an itinerary of the Renaissance cities of Northern Italy

View of Mantua from the river (Pixabay)

 

Approaching the city, you will see its beautiful silhouette standing out within the lakes that encircle it, the perfect sight of a medieval city. Mantua artistic and cultural heritage notably increased between the early 14th century until the 18th century under the powerful Gonzaga family. To really appreciate Mantua and all its attractions I suggest spending a couple of days in the city. This will give you the time to really savor the beauty of this city and its main attractions. 

 

The first Jewish presence in the city dates to 1145. However, it’s not until the 16th century that the Jewish community will reach its peak. In fact, in this century a grand total of 12 synagogues were built.  They were called “scholae”, and they served both as places of worship as well as “schools” or, if you prefer, as “yeshivot''. All 12 of the synagogues were destroyed in 1630 during the Mantua sacking by the Lansquenets as ordered by Emperor Ferdinand II. SIx of the synagogues were later rebuilt in the ghetto area. One of these, the Grand Synagogue was demolished in 1940 and the only reminiscence today is the street where it used to stand bearing its name. 

Frescoes in Palazzo Te (Pixabay)
 

Interesting also to note that In Mantua, the Gonzaga dukes devised a particular tax, unique in all of Italy, in the form of obligatory theatrical performances to be fully mounted and paid for by the Jewish community. Since these performances were Court performances, therefore large and festive, they required quite a lot of money for sets, costumes, special effects, musicians, dancers and actors. The Jews had to dedicate substantial time, resources, and creative energy to produce these spectacles.

 

This long and intricate history left many landmarks of the Jewish presence in Mantua which are definitely worth a visit. My Jewish tour started from the “Rotonda di San Lorenzo”, an impressive Romanic church built in the 11th century which, since time immemorial, was deconsecrated. One of its old entrance gates was used as a gateway to access the ghetto area. The opening of this doorway at sunrise and closing at sunset was the job of a Christian man called the “chiavaro” (key holder). The maze of streets and buildings of the ghetto area have changed since then because in the early 20th century most of the area underwent renovation. 

 

Nevertheless, particularly charming and characteristic is the area around Via Calvi, the “Casa del Rabbino” (the Rabbi’s house) with some decorations on its facade. In Piazza Bertazzolo and Via Norsa you can see several houses with small balconies with style French windows indicating that their original dwellers were Sephardic Jews. On one of the entrance doors, it is still possible to see the mark of a mezuzah put there, who knows how long ago. However, the main attraction remains the Norsa Torrazzo Synagogue, which is the last surviving synagogue in the city. As all synagogues from old ghettos, the exterior is completely anonymous and quite plain, however the stunning interiors are sure to amaze. Its high rooftops and the light will surprise you!  


Frescoes at the Ducal Palace in Mantua (Pixabay)
 

Now, it’s time to meet the Gonzaga family and enjoy the top attractions, on foot. I took to the streets and ventured into the four interlinking main squares: Piazza Sordello, Piazza Erbe, Piazza Mantegna, and Piazza Broletto. The squares are all flanked with magnificent Renaissance buildings. Around them are an intriguing maze of streets and cobbled lanes. The Piazza Mantegna is dominated by the facade of Alberti’s great unfinished Church of Sant’Andrea. Housing the weekly market, the Piazza Erbe has a long series of porticos, a tall clock tower, and is the site of the 11th century Rotonda di San Lorenzo. The incredibly beautiful Piazza Sordello is Mantua’s oldest square. The square is home to the Ducal Palace and the Duomo, the Cathedral of St. Peter. From the bridge across the water, you’ll have a beautiful view of Mantua. 

 

I was also curious to discover the daily life of the Gonzaga family at the “Castello di San Giorgio” and the Palazzo Ducale, the 2 magnificent residences of the Gonzaga family. Therefore, I booked a guide to explore them in all their splendor. Please keep in mind that the Palazzo Ducale is the second largest residential building in Europe, after the Vatican. When visiting them I totally got carried away: just to enter the castle located in the middle of the city with its drawbridge and moat full of water it is a walk back in time, not to mention the feeling of walking through the jaw-dropping halls and chambers, witnesses of an extremely economically and culturally prosperous period.

 

I also strongly suggest exploring, just 20 minutes from the city center, the “Palazzo Te” with its incredible frescoes and incredible top attraction the “Sala dei Giganti” (Hall of the Giants). The unique frescos painted there are an example of awe-inspiring beauty.

 

Explore the secrets of the “Bel Paese” and of its off the beaten track gems like Mantua that are waiting to be discovered by you. 

Andrea Alcalay from La Tour I-Talya. LaTour I-Talya is a project established and managed by a team of Italian Jews working together with one of the largest and most prestigious Italian Tour Operators. LaTour I-Talya specializes in tour packages which focus on the amazingly rich Jewish historical and cultural heritage found throughout Italy.

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The Jewish beauty of Florence
Pitigliano: "Little Jerusalem" in the Tuscan Maremma Region
Cividale del Friuli: Jewish Tours of Italy off the Beaten Path
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